PET is converted into Filament PETG, which stands for “polyethylene terephthalate-modified” because some of the ethylene glycols are substituted with CHDM (cyclohexanedimethanol), a substance you may be familiar with from plastic water bottles. As a result, a cleaner and less fragile filament than PET is produced. It does, however, have the unfortunate side effect of altering the recycling process. Although PET is widely recycled, Filament PETG is not – the subtle differences between these materials create a troublesome contaminant in recycling facilities.
In spite of this, it’s an excellent filament option for printing objects that must be solid, smooth, and have minimal shrinking. Additionally, the best PETG filament is often used since it is thought to be food-safe, although you should still read the fine print on any spool you purchase to be sure.
Of course, there are some drawbacks: Filament PETG’s extreme stickiness makes it poor at bridging, but it does result in excellent layer adhesion. Additionally, it is more hygroscopic than PLA, which means that if left out, it may be vulnerable to heavy stringing and air-moisture absorption. However, the best PETG Filament is a fantastic alternative if you require a high-strength material because PLA or ABS simply aren’t strong enough.
5 Pointers for 3D printing using filament PETG
Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of PETG filament printing is crucial, but you also need to know how to make the most of this material. When choosing to begin 3D printing with the best PETG filament, it’s crucial to consider potential concerns so you’ll be prepared. Here are our top five recommendations for utilizing filament PETG for 3D printing:
- A comfortable temperature
Since Filament PETG has a greater melting point than PLA, setting the extruder temperature between 210 and 250 degrees Celsius is advised. A temperature range of 80 to 100 degrees Celsius must be selected for the construction plate.
- Utilize the 3D printer fan.
It’s important to think about utilizing a cooling fan while printing with the best PETG filament. This is because retractions will be aided by the fan’s ability to cool the filament at the hot end (nozzle). Thanks to the quick cooling, your prints will be detailed without stringing. The initial layer or two of Filament PETG printing should be done without the fan (the greater temperature will help with super-strong layer adhesion), and the other layers should be printed with the fan fully on.
- A strong base layer
It is crucial to get the initial layer perfect for a successful outcome. If you don’t have it, you’ll probably have to print the item again, so keep these suggestions in mind. First, ensure that the construction platform is calibrated correctly. Preferably calibrated automatically to reduce the possibility of human error. A PEI build plate is the ideal surface for printing PETG plastic. The bottom has a smooth, glass-like texture. After cooling is complete, the 3D-printed object can be easily removed from the printing surface, leaving a spotless and flat bottom surface.
- Printing rate
Filament PETG 3D printing should be done at a speed of between 60 and 100 mm/s. A more incredible printing speed may have a detrimental impact on the 3D print’s quality. Printing at a slower speed—between 30 and 60 mm/sec—will produce a higher quality product.
- Keep the nozzle clean.
When printing with Filament PETG, it occasionally happens that filament blobs adhere to the nozzle and subsequently are deposited on an unintended portion of the print. If this occurs, it will cool and harden, which will cause the nozzle to run into it. The outcome is frequently a layer shift, which can be damaging to the print, so ensure that the nozzle is kept clean. Then, take a break, clean the nozzle, and resume where you left off Read more