Home » Expedition up the Aconcagua Normal Route

Expedition up the Aconcagua Normal Route

by Uneeb Khan

The Normal Route follows the Northwest Ridge and is a non-technical but physically demanding ascent that incorporates all the logistics of a large mountain. We use mules to transport all of our gear to camp. We set up a series of higher camps as we make our way up Aconcagua, following the philosophy of “climb high, sleep low.” This route uses three high camps on the way to the top. All of them are above the busy base camp at the head of the Horcones Valley, called Plaza de Mulas. Climbing Aconcagua expedition-style means staying at base camps to get used to the altitude and gather supplies to get to the top.

  • 1 DAY: MENDOZA

 We’ll be waiting for you at Mendoza’s airport so you can be transferred straight to your hotel. Your guide can help you if you need to rent or buy equipment, your guide can help you.

  • 2 DAY: Mendoza / Inca River (2,725M)

We’ll head to Puente del Inca after breakfast to acclimate. At Puente del Inca, we’ll check into our mountainside hotel. In the afternoon, we load mules at our Los Puquios depot for tomorrow. 

  • 3 Day: Puente Del inca / Confluencia (3,300M)

We’ll get permits before our 3.5-hour hike to Confluencia Camp (3,300 m). After a good rest, we’ll pitch up our tents and explore the area’s stunning rock formations.

  • 4 DAY: Confluencia / Plaza Francia (4,000M) / Confluencia

We hiked from Confluencia to Plaza Francia today. We’ll acclimate at Plaza Francia while viewing Aconcagua’s South Face. Many of the world’s top climbers have tested their skills on Aconcagua’s South Face. After exploring, we sleep at Confluencia Camp.

  • 5 DAY : Confluencia / Plaza De Mulas (4,260M)

We’re on our way to Plaza de Mulas, the starting point for our trek. Our guides keep the group’s speed at a comfortable level to ensure everyone arrives in good health. The trail starts at the Horcones Superior River, goes along the glacier, and then goes up onto a lateral moraine.

  • 6 DAY : Plaza De Mulas

 A day of rest. The day will begin leisurely with a hearty breakfast, followed by a pleasant stroll through the scenic neighborhood. After an afternoon orientation, we’ll set up camp for the ascent of 5,100-meter Mt. Bonete the following day.

  • 7 DAY: Plaza De Mulas / MT. Bonete (5,100M) / Plaza De Mulas

 Today we climbed 5,100-meter Mount Bonete. From the top, we see Aconcagua and the surrounding mountains. Mt. Bonete helps us acclimatize for Aconcagua. After our trek, we returned to Plaza de Mulas and enjoyed Base Camp.

  • 8 DAY : Plaza De Mulas / Camp 1 “Canadá” (4,910M) / Plaza De Mulas

Expedition to “Camp Canadá,” the first camp, for acclimatization purposes. When making the Aconcagua trek from Base Camp to Camp 1, team members who have not hired a personal porter can lighten their load by carrying some of their gear. We’ll start by traversing a field of Penitentes, which are ice pinnacles between two and five feet tall, and then we’ll take a series of switchbacks to ascend steadily to Camp Canadá.

  • DAY 09: Plaza De Mulas

 Day of acclimation and relaxation. We will get ourselves relaxed and packed up with our gear, and then we’ll proceed to the next camp further up the mountain.

  • DAY 10: Plaza De Mulas / Camp 1″Canadá”

As of this morning, we’ll be relocating to Camp Canadá. Everyone on the team will have their bags. Our camp equipment, including tents, sleeping bags, fuel, and cooking utensils, will be carried to us by porters.

  • DAY 11: Camp 1“Canadá” / Camp 2“Nido De Cóndores” (5,250M)

 We proceed from Camp Canada to Camp 2, “Nido de Cóndores,” to recover and acclimatize. On this day, climbers carry personal gear. Porters carry gear, food, and tents. We stayed with the guides at Nido de Cóndores and spent the night.

  • DAY 12: Camp 2″Nido De Cóndores”

 If you take today off to rest, you’ll be in much better shape to climb Mount Everest the next day.

  • DAY 13: Camp 2 “Nido De Cóndores” / Camp 3″Cólera”

 To Camp 3, also known as “Cólera,” you must climb. We will carry personal gear. Porters will carry tents and other equipment for the group. Campsites in Cólera Camp are positioned to be wind-sheltered as a safety precaution. While the group rests, the leaders will go through each person’s summit kit and give an orientation for the next day.

  • DAY 14: Camp 3“Cólera”/ Summit (6,962M) / Camp 3″Cólera”

 Climb Cólera to the top and Camp 3. We’ll get up early and dress to climb Aconcagua regular route. They’ll tell us when to leave our tents and climb the mountain. Two hours of switchbacks led us to a modest A-frame hut called “Independencia.” From here, we’ll cross Aconcagua’s North Face to the Canaleta, a low-angle valley leading to the summit ridge. As we climb Canaleta, we can see the surrounding mountains shrink away. The trail travels east to the top, a few hundred meters below the summit. The time of day and weather affect how long we stay on the summit.

  • DAY 15: Camp 3“Cólera”/ Plaza De Mulas

 We descend to Base Camp Plaza de Mulas. We’ll move our climbing gear and personal belongings downhill slowly. Porters carry tents and garbage. Once in Plaza de Mulas, the party can celebrate climbing Aconcagua and share a dinner.

  • DAY 16: Plaza De Mulas / Horcones / Mendoza

 Last day of the Aconcagua standard route hike, we descend to Horcones. Mules will carry your possessions, so bring only a light bag with a jacket and food. Go to Mendoza. Guides and climbers frequently celebrate with dinner that night.

  • DAY 17: Mendoza

Breakfast. They are stopping all previous services.

  • DAY 18 & 19: Extra Day For Weather

Note: This itinerary is a guide. Weather, shipping failure, and other unanticipated occurrences may cause adjustments.

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